Some ties can compete with spaghetti strands with respect of width, while other ties look more like napkins. I’ve seen ties from 1 inch to 5 inches. Ties both extremely wide and extremely narrow look comical when worn by common folk, but somehow, there are people who can magically pull it off.
There are two criteria that determine tie width – body width and lapel width. Those wider in the chest should wear wider ties, while those on the skinnier side should keep to narrower ties. This rule keeps one’s body and clothing within proportion.
The Rule of Thumb
Image from BlackLapel.com
But, unless you wear only custom-tailored ties, it will be hard to find ties that suits one’s proportions exactly. Instead, the width of a tie is usually chosen to match the lapel – the widest point of the tie should measure about the same as the widest point of the jacket lapel.
3.25 inches is a common width for lapels on recent suits, and 3.5-4 inches is more common for suits made in the 90s and early 2000s. Most ties on the market today around 3 inches in width, while 3.75 inches was considered standard for older ties.
Additional Considerations
Peak lapels, with “peaks” pointing up towards the shoulders, can generally be worn with ties a bit narrower than its width, because the viewer’s attention is not directed at the tie. With notch lapels, however, one can err towards wider ties (although narrow ties work too). Even so, keep difference in width between lapel and tie within half an inch, if possible. Any larger width difference creates discord and looks extremely absurd.
Lastly, the composition of a tie also matters in tie width. Ties with “interesting” (read “distracting”) patterns and weaves (such as wool knits, silk knits, and grenadines) need less width to “grab attention.” So, ties with intricate designs, either in fabric or in pattern, are allowed to be narrower than the jacket lapels. For the same reason, smoother, non-catchy ties can be slightly wider without causing too much trouble.
A Final Word
I used to be very particular in matching the width of jacket lapels and ties - I even did a bit of sewing work on some particularly wide (~4 in) ties so I could wear them with slimmer suits, but ultimately, it wasn’t worth it. The visual improvement was minimal, since I was an amateur at sewing, I destroyed the lining on some of the ties I “modified,” resulting on them being unwearable.
If your jacket lapels are within an inch of the width of your tie, you’re probably fine.